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Change Your Furnace Filter
As a general rule, it is best to use high-quality filters during heating months, and low quality filters during the cooling months. The reason for this is that air-conditioned air is colder and heavier, and is restricted more by higher quality filters. This results in less air-flow across the coils, which can cause them to freeze.
Ideally, low quality filters would be changed twice per month during the cooling season. Here is a sample low quality, 1" filter (average cost: $1.00)
Higher quality, pleated filters should be used during the heating season. Replace these every other month. Costs for pleated filters vary by quality. I suggest using the lower priced filters (approximately $2 - $3 per filter).
Some filters, such as the one below, are advertised as "allergen filters" and these tend to be more expensive ($4 - $7 each). These are also much more air restrictive, which can actually cause problems with your heating / cooling system. Therefore, it is advised to stay away from filters like these unless you need them for health reasons.
Have a Professional Chimney Cleaning &
Inspection
Wood Burning Fireplace Concerns
Do you have a wood burning fireplace in your home? If you do and you use it, has it been more than 2 years since it has been inspected? ......If you're like most homeowners, it has never been inspected.
During my standard home inspections, I perform a level I inspection of the fireplace and chimney flue. Level I inspections are visual and often times, just a small percentage of the flue liner is visible
Note: Unlined masonry chimneys are generally used for wood burning fireplaces, but in older homes they can also be used to vent the furnace / boiler, and water heaters. For the sake of this article, we will focus on wood burning fireplaces.
The following image shows a typical view of a flue interior from the rooftop:
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| the clay tiles you see are usually 2' in length and are sealed with mortar at the joints |
While this view may allow me to see some of the clay tiles, I am almost always unable to properly evaluate the mortar joints.
Gaps at the flue joints
The combustion process creates gases that contain creosote/soot, carbon monoxide and corrosive chemicals. The purpose of your chimney is to safely vent these hazardous flue gases from your home, but over time, the mixture of heat, moisture and chemicals will erode the mortar joints, leaving gaps or voids between flue tiles.
A thorough evaluation of the joints requires a specialist with a camera.
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| arrows show where gaps are likely to be found |
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| camera shot of a mortar joint gap |
Cracked Flue Tiles
Flue tiles can also crack due to "sudden occurrences" such as a chimney fire, or lightning strike.
Cracks may also be caused by poor workmanship, or from the ongoing settling of your home.
The puffy creosote and cracks in this image suggests that a chimney fire occurred. This chimney is not safe to use in its current condition.
Flaking Flue Tiles (Spalling)
Spalling is another form of deterioration that can occur. Years of exposure to corrosive chemicals and moisture from combustion can attack clay flue tiles, causing pieces of the flue liner to flake off or delaminate, a process called "spalling".
How These Hidden Dangers Can Affect You
Gaps, cracks and spalling can cause health risks by allowing exhaust gases to escape into your home. Gaps also allow combustible creosote or soot to buildup outside the flue liner. And if the creosote were to catch fire in this area of your chimney, serious damage can occur.
To work correctly and efficiently, chimneys must be free of gaps and cracks. Gaps and cracks allow excess air into your chimney, slowing the updraft, which makes it harder for smoke and gases to rise up and out.
The vast majority of chimneys in the metro area have some degree of deterioration and the reality is that most people use chimneys in this condition without any problems. However, to eliminate the potential concerns - mentioned above - repairs must be made.
The type of repair that is needed will depend on the degree of deterioration that has occurred. Repair options usually include:
1) Re-line the flue interior joints
2) Re-line the entire flue interior
3) Install a stainless steel liner
Heatshield is a specially formulated "Cerfractory" sealant material that can be used as a Joint Repair System or a Resurfacing System.
The following procedure is followed when only the mortar joints are in need of repair: First, a special foam applicator blade is custom made to fit your chimney. The applicator tool and blade are then plunged down your chimney and positioned below each gap or void. The HeatShield® Cerfractory® Flue Sealant mixture is added. Each void in your flue is filled as the HeatShield® mixture is extruded into the void by the tool. Your repaired void is then made smooth as the tool is pulled upward.
The next procedure is followed when the entire flue interior is in need of re-lining: First, a custom made foam applicator plug is placed at the bottom of the flue and is attached to a winch on top the chimney. Next, a "tie coat" material is applied to the flue walls as the plug is pulled upward by the winch. The "tie coat" cleans any remaining dust in your flue and acts as a primer for the HeatShield® Cerfractory® Flue Sealant. After the tie coat dries, the HeatShield® material is applied onto the flue at a thickness of about ¼" with the foam plug as it is pulled upward by the winch. This unique application method is known as "slip casting" or "slip cast extrusion".
HeatShield® repairs are covered by a 20 year material warranty.
Stainless Steel Liners
An alternative to re-lining your chimney is to install a stainless steel liner. While stainless steel liners are easy to work with, the installation should be performed by a professional. The cost for this can vary, but tends to be similar to re-lining the flue interior.
Obviously once a steel liner is installed, the existing cracks and gaps in the clay liner become non-issues. Note: Liners should be insulated before they are installed.
An alternative to re-lining your chimney is to install a stainless steel liner. While stainless steel liners are easy to work with, the installation should be performed by a professional. The cost for this can vary, but tends to be similar to re-lining the flue interior.
Obviously once a steel liner is installed, the existing cracks and gaps in the clay liner become non-issues. Note: Liners should be insulated before they are installed.
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| a typical steel liner kit |
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| this liner is insulated |
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| note: the liner in this image is not insulated; it should be before it is installed |
This short video shows how a stainless steel liner is installed.
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| unlined chimney throat at left |
Other areas of concern:
The chimney throat area - located above the burner chamber - is another area of concern. In some cases, the bricks inside the throat are not covered with a parge coating. This means that the brick and mortar are exposed (a rough surface). When the throat surface is not smooth, the flow of gases can be reduced, resulting in turbulence. The exposed brick and mortar will also be more susceptible to deterioration and some amount of this deterioration is common. Therefore, repairs to this area are often recommended after a professional inspection.
What you can do to reduce deterioration:
The chimney throat area - located above the burner chamber - is another area of concern. In some cases, the bricks inside the throat are not covered with a parge coating. This means that the brick and mortar are exposed (a rough surface). When the throat surface is not smooth, the flow of gases can be reduced, resulting in turbulence. The exposed brick and mortar will also be more susceptible to deterioration and some amount of this deterioration is common. Therefore, repairs to this area are often recommended after a professional inspection.
What you can do to reduce deterioration:
If your chimney is in good condition, one thing you can do to help keep it that way is to replace your existing cover with a top-sealing damper. The three reasons to use a top-sealing damper are: 1) to save energy dollars, 2) to protect from water damage and 3) to prevent birds/critters from entering the chimney.
Save energy dollars. Traditional throat dampers have a metal-to-metal seal. Even when they are new, they leak. That leaking gets worse over time as they rust and warp with heat. That means even when they are closed they allow warm air from your home to escape up the chimney. This adds significantly to your energy costs. Top-mounted dampers seal warm air in 90% more efficiently than even new throat dampers.
Protect your chimney from water damage. Water runs down your chimney and erodes the mortar joints and damages the firebox in your fireplace. Top-sealing dampers will protect the inner chimney from water damage during those times you are not using your fireplace.
If you think it's time to have your chimney inspected, there are many professionals in the metro area who can help you. One company that I have referred over the years can be found by clicking the "List of Specialists / Contractors Link", which is located at the bottom of this page.
