April Home Maintenance Reminders

How you can help prevent leakage into your basement

 
When I find evidence of water / wetness in basements, the source is almost always attributable to gutter and / or slope issues at the house exterior.  Homeowners should be proactive when trying to eliminate basement water issues, and here are a few things you can do (see diagram):

1-2) Make sure gutters and downspouts are not clogged and that all extensions are connected and are draining far from the foundation.
3) Make sure the soil and walkways are sloping down and away from the home.
5) Cover window wells to keep excess water out.
7) Make sure the sump pump discharge pipe drains far away from the home.



The image below shows a proper grade / slope.  Notice that the siding has clearance from the soil so that moisture does not wick into the wall structure (1"-2" minimum).  Soil will settle over time and low spots will develop as a result, so low spots should be filled with soil as needed (ideally, the soil is then covered with plastic and rock / mulch to prevent soil erosion).



The slope of the lot should direct water even further away from the home.  Ideally, the lot would slope to the side property lines and any surface water that drains off of hillsides should be diverted away from the home with the use of swails and / or french drains.



Lack of gutters, or disconnected / clogged / damaged gutters is another common source of basement wetness.  Extensions are often disconnected, or are too short.  This results in a large amount of moisture against the foundation and this is one of the most common sources of leakage into a basement.
 


Some extensions are installed below the soil, which is convenient because you do not have to trip over the drain pipes.  But the concern is that the extensions can, and often do clog, which results in a large amount of water next to the foundation.
 

 

A good way to prevent clogging is to install a leaf screen at the soil entrance point (see photo below).



Settled pavement is another common source of basement wetness.  Gaps, such as the one in this photo can be sealed to prevent water from collecting near the foundation (use flexible sealants).



But when pavement settles significantly, additional repairs are needed.



For decades mud-jacking was the only remedy (short of concrete replacement) for restoring settled concrete to its original pour height.  During this process, a pattern of holes of approximately 1 1/2" - 2 1/2" in diameter are drilled through the surface of the concrete at various intervals.  A slurry mud mixture is then pumped through the holes, creating a "pyramid" underneath which lifts the concrete.  The holes are then filled with a concrete patch.

The photo below shows concrete surfaces that were raised by mud-jacking.



The drawbacks to this technique are: 1) The patched holes are often unsightly, and 2) The repair tends to be temporary (settlement can return after a few years).  Why does settling recur?

The reasons for this are: 1) Drilling holes of this size and number weakens the concrete & causes it to crack from beneath.  2) Because of the high moisture content in the material used for mud-jacking, evaporation is inevitable, and shrinkage of the mortar occurs over time.  3) Because the voids between the mortar "pyramids" (below the slab) are not filled, the concrete resettles over time.

If you're looking for a more permanent solution, you should consider a new repair technique, called "sand-jacking".

The photo below is a before shot of a settled walkway.  Notice the pavers used as a step, due to the large amount of settlement.



Here is the after shot.....after the surfaces were raised by sand-jacking.  Notice there are no unsightly holes in the pavement.



 Sandjacking is a patented, trademarked, innovative process used for lifting settled or uneven concrete and for filling voids beneath the concrete.  Patented braces, hydraulics, and air pressure are used to lift the concrete, while filling the entire cavity underneath with dry limestone sand.  In many cases, this can be done without drilling unsightly holes in the surface of the concrete.  Because this sand has less than a 2% moisture content, there is no evaporation.  This provides a better base for your concrete to rest on, which greatly reduces the possibility of future settling.

Sandjacking is comparable in cost to mud-jacking but provides a better-looking, more permanent solution!  The company who specializes in this is called Advanced Sandjacking

http://www.advancedsandjacking.com/

 

March Maintenance Reminders

How to Change the Filter in Your Ice Maker

The water filter cartridge for your freezer's ice maker removes rust, sediment, bad odors and other impurities from the water before it enters the ice maker.

Most filter brands recommended replacement once per year, but some can go as long as three years.  If you have reduced water flow (or no water flow) at your water dispenser, you can bet that your filter is in need of replacement.

Some types of freezers include a built-in filter, which is usually accessed at the front of the refrigerator, or inside the refrigerator, but on some models, the filter is added at the back of the refrigerator where the water line enters the freezer. If necessary, check your owner's manual to determine where the filter is located, and what type of water filter cartridge to buy.

Built-In Water Filters
  

On some units, the filter is located at the base of the refrigerator.  Look for a knob at the front of the refrigerator down by the grill plate.



Turn the knob counter-clockwise to unlock the filter. Pull out the cartridge.  Replace the water filter cartridge with a new one.  Push the cartridge back in and turn the knob to secure.

On some units, the filter is located inside the refrigerator - above the top shelf.  For these units you need to either open a small compartment, or you simply unscrew the filter.






Some replacement filters are available at home improvement stores, but the easiest way to purchase is on-line.

Non Built-In Water Filters
 
If you do not see a filter inside, or at the base, it may be located behind the refrigerator.  Pull the refrigerator away from the wall so you can see behind it (be careful not to damage your floor). You may also need to turn off the power and water supply to the freezer, depending on your model of filter (water shut off valves tend to be located behind the refrigerator, or in the basement).

Find the water filter cartridge, which looks like a canister or cylinder. It will be attached to the water line that enters the refrigerator-freezer.



Install the new cartridge, then turn on the water to test that the new filter is secure and does not leak. Run the water several minutes.


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Clean Your Gas Fireplace Glass
   

The glass on a gas fireplace requires periodic cleaning because over time, a white film develops on the glass.  There are three potential reasons for this:

white film on glass

1. During the first eight 8 hours of use (referred to as the initial "burn-in" period), the burning off of the oils and paints used in the manufacturing and curing process often leave a film on the glass.

2. For older units, the white film is often just a normal by-product of combustion.  All fossil fuel produces sulfur during the combustion process. When this sulfur is mixed with moisture, sulfuric acid is created.  Note: This white film can permanently etch the fireplace glass, so when it becomes noticeable, it should be cleaned.

3. The film can also be caused by the burning of dust and dirt - brought in with the combustion air.

Normally, this film can be easily cleaned off, but as mentioned above, the film can etch the glass permanently.  If that occurs, glass replacement is the only remedy.

To avoid this, regular cleanings are recommended.  I always recommend hiring a specialist for this, because in addition to cleaning your glass, a specialist will perform other maintenance tasks, such as adjusting the burners to ensure they are burning properly.  Fireplace stores will have specialists who can provide this service.  Your utility company should also be able to assist you with this.

 If you want to clean the glass yourself, you should use a non-ammonia based cleaner (special cleaners are available at fireplace stores).  The following video link demonstrates how to clean the glass from a typical gas fireplace:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qjUAX10Gmk

While you're cleaning the glass, check the gasket that is on the glass door, or on the exterior - around the firebox.  Any gasket that is either cracked or is missing pieces should be replaced immediately.

 Then check all of the wing nuts, bolts, etc. (whatever is being used to keep your glass door in place) to make sure that the glass door is fitting securely.  If the glass door is not secured tightly or if the gasket is damaged, carbon monoxide can escape into your home. 

Finally, visually check out unit's outside vent.  Make sure there are no leaves or nests in the vent and replace the vent kit if it is torn or damaged in any way.
 

February Maintenance Reminders

Change Your Furnace Filter

As a general rule, it is best to use high-quality filters during heating months, and low quality filters during the cooling months. The reason for this is that air-conditioned air is colder and heavier, and is restricted more by higher quality filters. This results in less air-flow across the coils, which can cause them to freeze.

Ideally, low quality filters would be changed twice per month during the cooling season. Here is a sample low quality, 1" filter (average cost: $1.00)

 Higher quality, pleated filters should be used during the heating season. Replace these every other month. Costs for pleated filters vary by quality. I suggest using the lower priced filters (approximately $2 - $3 per filter).

 Some filters, such as the one below, are advertised as "allergen filters" and these tend to be more expensive ($4 - $7 each). These are also much more air restrictive, which can actually cause problems with your heating / cooling system. Therefore, it is advised to stay away from filters like these unless you need them for health reasons.

Have a Professional Chimney Cleaning &
Inspection

Wood Burning Fireplace Concerns

   Do you have a wood burning fireplace in your home?  If you do and you use it, has it been more than 2 years since it has been inspected? ......If you're like most homeowners, it has never been inspected.

During my standard home inspections, I perform a level I inspection of the fireplace and chimney flue.  Level I inspections are visual and often times, just a small percentage of the flue liner is visible

Note: Unlined masonry chimneys are generally used for wood burning fireplaces, but in older homes they can also be used to vent the furnace / boiler, and water heaters.  For the sake of this article, we will focus on wood burning fireplaces.

 The following image shows a typical view of a flue interior from the rooftop:

the clay tiles you see are usually 2' in length and are sealed with mortar at the joints

   
While this view may allow me to see some of the clay tiles, I am almost always unable to properly evaluate the mortar joints.

 Gaps at the flue joints
 
 The combustion process creates gases that contain creosote/soot, carbon monoxide and corrosive chemicals.  The purpose of your chimney is to safely vent these hazardous flue gases from your home, but over time, the mixture of heat, moisture and chemicals will erode the mortar joints, leaving gaps or voids between flue tiles.
 
A thorough evaluation of the joints requires a specialist with a camera.

arrows show where gaps are likely to be found

   

camera shot of a mortar joint gap

 
Cracked Flue Tiles
 
Flue tiles can also crack due to "sudden occurrences" such as a chimney fire, or lightning strike. 


Cracks may also be caused by poor workmanship, or from the ongoing settling of your home.

 

 
 The puffy creosote and cracks in this image suggests that a chimney fire occurred.  This chimney is not safe to use in its current condition.

 Flaking Flue Tiles (Spalling)

Spalling is another form of deterioration that can occur.  Years of exposure to corrosive chemicals and moisture from combustion can attack clay flue tiles, causing pieces of the flue liner to flake off or delaminate, a process called "spalling".

 How These Hidden Dangers Can Affect You

Gaps, cracks and spalling can cause health risks by allowing exhaust gases to escape into your home.  Gaps also allow combustible creosote or soot to buildup outside the flue liner.  And if the creosote were to catch fire in this area of your chimney, serious damage can occur. 

 

To work correctly and efficiently, chimneys must be free of gaps and cracks.  Gaps and cracks allow excess air into your chimney, slowing the updraft, which makes it harder for smoke and gases to rise up and out.

The vast majority of chimneys in the metro area have some degree of deterioration and the reality is that most people use chimneys in this condition without any problems.  However, to eliminate the potential concerns - mentioned above - repairs must be made.
  

The type of repair that is needed will depend on the degree of deterioration that has occurred.  Repair options usually include:

1) Re-line the flue interior joints



2) Re-line the entire flue interior

3) Install a stainless steel liner

 
Heatshield is a specially formulated "Cerfractory" sealant material that can be used as a Joint Repair System or a Resurfacing System.
 


 The following procedure is followed when only the mortar joints are in need of repair:  First, a special foam applicator blade is custom made to fit your chimney.  The applicator tool and blade are then plunged down your chimney and positioned below each gap or void.  The HeatShield® Cerfractory® Flue Sealant mixture is added.  Each void in your flue is filled as the HeatShield® mixture is extruded into the void by the tool.  Your repaired void is then made smooth as the tool is pulled upward.

The next procedure is followed when the entire flue interior is in need of re-lining:  First, a custom made foam applicator plug is placed at the bottom of the flue and is attached to a winch on top the chimney.  Next, a "tie coat" material is applied to the flue walls as the plug is pulled upward by the winch.  The "tie coat" cleans any remaining dust in your flue and acts as a primer for the HeatShield® Cerfractory® Flue Sealant.  After the tie coat dries, the HeatShield® material is applied onto the flue at a thickness of about ¼" with the foam plug as it is pulled upward by the winch.  This unique application method is known as "slip casting" or "slip cast extrusion".

HeatShield® repairs are covered by a 20 year material warranty.
 

Stainless Steel Liners
 
 An alternative to re-lining your chimney is to install a stainless steel liner.  While stainless steel liners are easy to work with, the installation should be performed by a professional.  The cost for this can vary, but tends to be similar to re-lining the flue interior.

Obviously once a steel liner is installed, the existing cracks and gaps in the clay liner become non-issues.  Note: Liners should be insulated before they are installed.

a typical steel liner kit

this liner is insulated

note: the liner in this image is not insulated; it should be before it is installed

 

This short video shows how a stainless steel liner is installed.

http://www.chimneylinerinc.com/installation.html
 

unlined chimney throat at left

Other areas of concern:

 The chimney throat area - located above the burner chamber - is another area of concern.  In some cases, the bricks inside the throat are not covered with a parge coating.  This means that the brick and mortar are exposed (a rough surface).  When the throat surface is not smooth, the flow of gases can be reduced, resulting in turbulence.  The exposed brick and mortar will also be more susceptible to deterioration and some amount of this deterioration is common.  Therefore, repairs to this area are often recommended after a professional inspection.

 What you can do to reduce deterioration:

If your chimney is in good condition, one thing you can do to help keep it that way is to replace your existing cover with a top-sealing damper.  The three reasons to use a top-sealing damper are: 1) to save energy dollars, 2) to protect from water damage and 3) to prevent birds/critters from entering the chimney.

 



Save energy dollars. Traditional throat dampers have a metal-to-metal seal. Even when they are new, they leak. That leaking gets worse over time as they rust and warp with heat. That means even when they are closed they allow warm air from your home to escape up the chimney. This adds significantly to your energy costs. Top-mounted dampers seal warm air in 90% more efficiently than even new throat dampers.

Protect your chimney from water damage. Water runs down your chimney and erodes the mortar joints and damages the firebox in your fireplace. Top-sealing dampers will protect the inner chimney from water damage during those times you are not using your fireplace.

Top-sealing dampers can also prevent animal infiltration.  Raccoons, squirrels, birds, and rodents love to move into chimneys.  Top-sealing dampers will keep them out.
If you think it's time to have your chimney inspected, there are many professionals in the metro area who can help you.  One company that I have referred over the years can be found by clicking the "List of Specialists / Contractors Link", which is located at the bottom of this page.

January Maintenance Reminders

Inspect Attic for Signs of Frost

Seal Attic Bypasses

 Attic bypasses are simply gaps, or passageways that allow house air to leak into the attic.  The most common locations for bypasses are at furnace exhaust vents, plumbing vents, electrical boxes, and electrical wires that pass through top plates.  Of course, bath fans, and kitchen fans must also not be venting into the attic space.

When is the last time you looked into your attic space?  If you're like most homeowners, you have never looked in your attic.  Well now is a good time to do so.  Why?  Because when the cold December and January temperatures roll in, it's possible for frost to form on the attic structure.  This does not occur during the warmer months and evidence of past problems (i.e. stained or decayed wood) is not always present.

Small amounts of frost are common, but if the frost buildup becomes significant, it can lead to problems.  When frost melts, it wets the attic insulation, which lowers the R-value (insulating value).  In some cases, there will be enough moisture to actually stain the ceilings.  Stains are most commonly found at ceiling penetrations, such as light fixtures, or smoke detectors.

Minor frost formation on nail heads

If the frost buildup occurs regularly, the continual saturation of the roof decking can cause the plywood to delaminate and rot.

excessive frost formation on sheathing

Decayed / delaminated sheathing

Why Does Frost Form in Attics?
 

When warm, moisture-filled house air leaks into the attic, it condenses on the cold surfaces.  That is why you may see frost on the roof structure, or on the nail heads that penetrate the roof sheathing.  This flow of warm air can also cause (or contribute to) the formation of ice dams on roofs.  As many of you know, there has been an abundance of ice dam problems in the Twin Cities this winter.

This particular home shows the classic signs of an ice dam problem.  First, there is an excessive buildup of ice at the overhang and the snow melt on the roof above this area is obvious.  There also are streak marks on the siding, which suggest that moisture has backed up below the shingles and has leaked through the soffit area (leakage into the wall / ceiling structure would also be possible in this situation).

In most cases, stopping the flow of house air into the attic is the key to eliminating these problems.

This image shows some of the more common locations for leaks.

Kitchen and bathroom soffit areas are another common leakage source.  In older homes, there often is no drywall covering the openings to these spaces - from the attic side.

 

Attic hatches are often times not insulated, or are inadequately insulated.
Repairs
 
In most cases, gaps can be sealed with spray foam insulation, but when sealing around a heat generating item, such as a furnace exhaust flue, sheet metal is recommended.

For a much more detailed description of thermal bypasses, and recommended solutions, click here.
 

Lower the Humidity in Your Home

 It is nearly impossible to seal every little bypass to an attic, but if most bypasses are sealed, it is unlikely for you to have frost problems if you also maintain normal levels of humidity in your home.  Excessive humidity levels are common if you:

1)     Have a whole house humidifier and set it too high.

2)     Do not operate your kitchen vent while cooking.
 3)     Do not operate your bath fan while bathing / showering (the fan should also run for at least 15 minutes after showering).